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Inlet Manifold Sensor..
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This has probably been coverd before,but any way
Still being an EFI newb...here is how I seen it..,my bike's idle was all over the shop when I pulled up at lights etc,
Sometimes revving around 1500 RPM and gradually dropping back to near idle..
On a cold motor the bike would rev around the 1500RPM mark and would take what seemed like forever to get to sitting there Idling
I thought it was my tune,but an old mate set me straight that I needed to clean the sensor in the inlet manifold..
     (It monitors the fuel/air mix in the maniflod)
So I cleaned it and it has made a noticable difference in the bikes idling etc
Prior to cleaning the sensor,starting the bike from cold it would sit there revving around 1500RPM and would take forever to get to idle
Now the bike only sits at the 1500 RPM mark for a short period ,quickly dropping back to 1200/1300 mark then dropping back to idle at 950/1000Rpm

So anyhoo,for other newbs like me this is how to do it.....

Have the fob close to the bike
Turn the ignition switch to IGN
Then pull the main fuse or disconnect the battery....

My bike is a streetglide with a 6 gallon tank so I had to remove the tank to get at the sensor

This video will show how to remove the seat and tank for us newbs.... Link



I think there are video's ... Here ...for other a few other models

Get yourself a can of sensor cleaner...supercheap stock it

 can+1

Now the tank is off the bike,you can now get at the sensor in the manifold

 sensor_1 1

Remove the T20 Torx bolt and pulling upward holding onto the sensor lid,remove the sensor..,you might have to gently wiggle the sensor out as well as it has a flat type of o-ring on the body
Do not touch the sensor itself.
Now give the sensor a really good spray of the sensor cleaner...do not wipe the sensor dry,let it air dry
Holding the sensor by the lid upside down I give the sensor a good spray also..

 sensor_2 +1

I put the sensor on a rag to drain and air dry..

 sensor_3+1

Now the sensor is dry and clean re-install it back into the maniflod,fit the tank
Leave the ign switch set to OFF and install the main fuse,
refit the side cobver and seat ...Done
 




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pb020001_2

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Last edited by pizz on Tue 04 Sep, 2018 15:38; edited 2 times in total 
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Good job mate , useful info for future use
 



 
Last edited by Dinger on Tue 04 Sep, 2018 21:01; edited 2 times in total 
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Thanks for that Pizz man, will have to do a few things on the fatty
this summer and that along with cam chain adjuster block, fuel
filter plus a few more are all going to have to be looked at.

            
 



 
Bluey - View user's profileSend private message 
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Interesting pizz
My bike has just started idling in the same scenario as yours , and lately cold starts when I take off it idles rough for the first 500 metres then is fine for  the rest of the ride .  Iam hoping your tip will sought this out. Will let you know how it pans out.
 



 
baggerrob65 - View user's profileSend private message 
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Good post man....
 




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Hi Pizz, nice info. Just curious as your bike not to old or K's. Maybe a fuel system / injector cleaner put through might also help.
 




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baggerrob65 wrote: [View Post]
Interesting pizz
My bike has just started idling in the same scenario as yours , and lately cold starts when I take off it idles rough for the first 500 metres then is fine for  the rest of the ride .  Iam hoping your tip will sought this out. Will let you know how it pans out.


That's basically what was going on with my bike Rob
 




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STEAMER wrote: [View Post]
Hi Pizz, nice info. Just curious as your bike not to old or K's. Maybe a fuel system / injector cleaner put through might also help.


I will mix some cleaner with the next fill up Steamer,it can't hurt.
I've not ridden because of my back,so fuel breakdown could happen but since cleaning the sensor the bike has a nice crisp throttle response and startup is how I expected it to be...  
 




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pb020001_2

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Took the bike out for a quick ride today,it is running like a charm since the sensor clean........no hunting for an idle ....it responded well to all throttle openings
 




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pb020001_2

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Good post Pizz ..

running BP Ultimate 98 [has added cleaning shit] can save the amount of times ya need to do the dis-assemble internal clean ..

 




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I have a 2011 Heritage & according to manual it says dont remove MAP sensor with induction module still on enginge or sensor can b damaged. There it also a bracket from the idle air controller that prevent MAP sensor coming out.I put the tank back on & will attack it another day
 



 
Last edited by Dinger on Wed 19 Sep, 2018 12:37; edited 2 times in total 
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Rxes wrote: [View Post]
Good post Pizz ..

running BP Ultimate 98 [has added cleaning shit] can save the amount of times ya need to do the dis-assemble internal clean ..




I have always used BP Ultimate 98 or Caltex Vortex 98... costs a little more, but it's supposed to be the cleanest fuel available. My car mechanic recommended it to me many years ago, and that is all I use in the Fatty and in my cars....

I stay away from Shell, as I've had too many problems with their fuel....
 




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2010 FATBOY, Vance & Hines 2 into 1 Big Radius, Screamin Eagle Super Tuner Pro, Screamin Eagle Heavy Breather, 2" Burleigh Roller Bars with a 10" Rise, Braided Cables, Combination Speedo & Tacho, Progressive RAP & with dreams of more to come
 
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I've had problems with Shell     .. both [once each] with My Bike & the Jeep .. & haven't used Shell since.
 




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